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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.